From Pepsi to EST

And so for some reasons, Pepsi’s local partnership with Serm Suk bottling plant ended in the beginning of Nov 2012. No more Pepsi production in Thailand. Thais were even saying Kentucky Fried Chicken does not serve no Pepsi no more. That remains to be seen, I seem to be able to order Pepsi through their online menu. Anyway, EST had blanketed the Kingdom by storm. Why let the distribution channel got to waste Serm Suk would ask themselves. Instead of delivering no nothing to the retailers, they cooked out their own recipe and called it EST. No idea what that means. Retailers continued with whatever Serm Suk sent and sold what was received. In metro, yes we know what EST with their deceiving Pepsi matching colors is and so we went over to the Coke faction if there is a choice. At restaurants and food outlets, they would say “sorry no more Pepsi… we have EST”. But guess what when upcountry. A fellow mate of mine asked for Pepsi and was given EST. The outlets in the provinces had associated Pepsi with Serm Suk. They see the same delivery man. They pay to the same account. They order through the same channel and receive the bottles from the same truck with deceiving stickers in the same blue red white colors. To them Serm Suk water = Pepsi. I have heard of color blind, but this is either word or brand blind.

Suan Phueng, Sheep Galore

Just Sheep!!!

The latest trend these years is Suan Phueng. It’s a province located not too far away from Bangkok, west to be exact near the mountain ranges bordering Burma. It’s a popular destination during the cooler winter months, but getting accommodation for weekend stay is a huge challenge by itself – all weekends fully booked in the months late October to January. As to why Thais swarm this countryside that once used to be ignored, one will have to visit and then to know. As one transverse the twisty roads, one would see countless resorts with large greenery dotted with the so many overfed sheep and witness the marauding sheep craze Thai folks posting in all imaginable fashion with them wooly creatures. Are sheep classified an extinction species or what in Thailand one would not know.

Temporary Bridge

In October the weather should have been cooler, the locals shared their account. This year, it was hot, humid and unexpected heavier than normal downpour had broke the tourism trade in the region. As I drove the scenic routes, there were many spots of recent landslides, a bridge that was washed away and innumerable road repairs going on. Not a pleasant drive but in all a nice experience as the extreme crowds in lined up roads were not present. The resorts, normally filled to the brim had cancellations the weekend I went. The arrivals were affected by recent news coverage of how badly the region had been affected by the passing tropical storm called Gaemi. She came from Vietnam waters and swept inland missing Bangkok which the authorities warned could undergo massive flooding. The media advised everyone to stay at home. And yes the Bangkokians did obey but only to see the glorious sunshine and wispy clouds in the clear blue skies over Bangkok. Critics slammed the authorities in public media over the next few days.

Morning Glory Resort

Damaged Roads

Morning Glory Resort suffered from the recent torrential downpour and lost part of her road leading into the compound to the meandering river running alongside. The simple resort, run by a young couple and features only about four villas, privacy I liked. The young attractive lady owner loves to bake and so there was a bakery in the making to add to the amenities. This is no place to satisfy the petting desire of sheep crazed Thais. The resort has a large sloping field filled with supposedly more than a hundred cute bouncy bunnies. Now bunnies are not only bouncy, but mischievous like a cat. They breach the parameters and stray all over the resort, just like stray cats do. So one could find them at one’s door step, below one’s car and scurrying all over the vicinity from shades to shades. The bunnies, they do not exhibit themselves as the sun grew fierce with the afternoon hours. So the only time I could frolic with them was either early in the cool morning or late as the sun was about to set. One would have to entice them to crowd around by rabbit feed which the resort happily hands out.

Rabbit in the Yard

What happened to the supposedly hundred strong battalion of rabbits? They perished. Not by eagles swooping down on bunny buffet nor by Burmese hunting them for food. But by disease sadly the truth is, communal living has its dangers and negligence resulted in lost stock. Some see the resort as a dumping ground for pet bunnies, irresponsible owners who could no longer take care of their pets drop them at Morning Glory Resort as a convenience. And so once there was a sick rabbit that the owners left there, and then the infection spread. I saw sad rabbits, I saw cloudy eyes, patches of empty skin with rashes so grueling and on the heads of the bunnies tattered ears. We had to disinfect ourselves and my camera just to make sure I do not bring the infection home to my own bunny I so love.

Hot Spring

Enough of sharing the dark side of bouncy bunnies and back to blogging about the geography. There are hot springs in the region, yes, hot springs where steam and water surface from the ground, probably fueled by deep volcanic rocks that will erupt with lava December 2012 as the Earth is prophesized to go bonkers. There are waterfalls somewhere here and there but that would require some trekking. And the place is now blooming with so many coffee this and coffee that shop one will be spoilt for choice. They all are there only for one reason, not to serve good aromatic coffee but only to serve as picturesque mini theme parks for one to take pictures. There’s a temple of the candles where every copyright on Angry Birds had been infringed. Good restaurants a few there are, but only the locals can tell you where and one that I find most interesting, was to lunch on the peak of a hill. A simple rustic setting of wooden tables, chairs and counter, they cooked out German sausages accompanied by mash and to wash down our meals, mini bottles of Fanta Strawberry soda. The middle aged owners comical and so extra friendly told tales of how they terrorize their customers using an iPhone app that adds random ghostly apparitions to pictures taken of them. We enjoyed their company as they enjoyed ours, secluded, the second table came as we left with full bellies of food and laughter.

Foggy Morning

Suan Phueng, not too far just a 2 hours drive, must go in winter to witness the sea of fog encroaching the undulating peaks of many. Unspoiled nature still abundance thanks to the environmental mindset of the country folks there. Avoid in scorching summer.

The view where German Sausages were Served

Coffee Shop by the Road

Pool fed by Hot Spring

Where the source of Hot Water is From

Bathroom in Morning Glory Resort

A cute Swiss Shop

How do we solve problems here?

As I did ever blogged before, if any sections of roads suffers from extreme congestion due to cars queuing up for that u-turn, traffic police here simply blocks off that u-turn. Drivers go find a u-turn somewhere else. Same concept goes for toilet in the block I work in. To solve the problem of too many dirty toilets, simply just locked many of them up. If no one can use it, it won’t be dirty. And so I ran from floors to floor looking for that open toilet, shit leaking as I did. And in my dash seeking critically needed relief, I came across the cleaners sitting down at corners yakking away about which pa-la (fermented fish) from whatever province makes their som-tam (Thai Papaya Salad) better. Amazing Thailand.

A380 Introduced

The Thai Airways fleet recently had a new member. The famed giant of the skies - A380. The in-flight magazines are sprawled with pages on this plane. The media updated with images of this massive technology marvel in the skies. So proud, so glorious the carrier is now. Well guess what, they only have one. And it flies only the short routes between Hong Kong, Bangkok and Singapore. Theses giants are suppose to be for long haul. What the heck are they thinking? And they are promoting wildly the airfares so cheap to be on the A380. And so the topic on us Thai frequent flyers here is that we are guinea pigs. We think they are doing a load test, stuff the A380 full and make it takeoff and land as many times as possible just to make sure a nut don’t fall out, a bolt don’t fracture, the wings don’t snap, the engine don’t independently fly off in different directions, the brake works, the toilet flushes, the aircrew gets familiar, the ground crew accustoms to maintenance, the pilot don’t push the wrong button that open doors in mid air… practice makes perfection before the long haul assignment.

Living in Clay Huts - Vana Varin

Just 17 units nestled on the hills of Hua Hin, away from the beaches, away from the noise. You do really need a car to get there. There are 12 basic units of idyllic straw roofed clay huts, each christen with one of the animals from the Chinese zodiac. There are 5 larger traditional Thai villas for the bigger families, one even featuring her own private pool. The room I was in was basic to her core, matching her very reasonable price. TV, air-conditioning, free DIY coffee, hot water from the supplied kettle. Nice and clean my room was, in fact so clean and well polished the wooden floors that I could so easily slip and slide around in the large rooms so spacious. Greenery was abundance, my room had her own private garden and there's even a doggie house seated nicely at a corner overlooking the Burma sunset across the distant border. I think this place is dog friendly.


They could however had place more attention to the limited selection buffet breakfast which was a wee bit disappointing. The number of seats was inadequate. The large Thai family who came dominated the only four tables by the pond where the buffet line was and turned breakfast into a fish market for us. From their grandsons to their living ancestors, the whole family tree was there. Kids played their iPads and iPhones refused to leave the table and sat on till 10. The adults chatted away loudly unashamed in full awareness that guest turning up had to look for tables elsewhere.


The large pool located next to the restaurant offered me a refreshing dip after a long hot day of cave trekking. There's a Jacuzzi corner built-in that gently massaged my so aching muscles as the ever blowing mild breeze accompanied my beer by the pool. Under the clear blue skies interrupted by sky rocketing trees, it was a gratifying time as evening approached. Coming here, no five stars treatment and don't expect five stars amenities. The resort was only opened in April of 2011 and I suspect like all other resorts in Thailand, as soon as it gets popular, the prices will definitely multiply. So do it now before the inflation. Privacy and just the basic all I needed, my experience there was in total agreement to the money I had paid.


The clay huts will do. They have larger villas for big families, but those are of wooden built and not as interesting as the clay ones.

We copy the Santorini

This April 2012, we wanted tranquility and so again Hua Hin we went. En-route to the destination in our jelly bean of a Honda jazz, we stumbled upon this newly opened imitation of Santorini. See, in Thailand, we copy everything. First it was bags and clothing apparels, now we copy the whole town. Newly opened, we were lucky to be among the first few hundreds to have walked her alleyway. All buildings in bleach white tastefully splashed with ledges of a dark baby blue. It is huge the compound and hot as the sun blazed down. Some tenants had not moved in yet but aplenty of them had already opened shop. As usual, the regular types of shops you would find in all touristy places. I could see this place fast becoming one of the “die-die-must-come-take-picture” here places. Thais have this weird concept that if you never come to certain places in certain provinces, you have not actually been to that province. My conclusion was verified when we stumbled into a crowd of photographers from some TV station I did not know shooting a sexily dressed see thru covered tall beautiful i-want-her type of Thai movie star whom I did not know. As the hours passed more people came and soon it was time we left on our way to Vana Varin, our destination.

Advise I would give is, if you would like to visit Santorini, and it is the weekend you are going, do it on the Saturday en-route to Hua Hin. Make an effort to u-turn as this place is located on the other side of the road in the direction back to Bangkok. See, if it’s a Saturday, all people will be heading to Hua Hin and all will plan to go Santorini on the return trip the next day. So the “return” day on Sunday, Santorini will be Sardine-rini. And go early, less people, less blazing sun. You know how hot Thailand can get.

Swimming with the Flotsam on Samet, Lima Coco

The very interesting Shuttle Boat


How we got onto the Island

Just there for a weekend gateway, a single night on the not too far away island of Samet. From Bangkok a good 2 hours drive, left my car with the caretakers at the pier for a small fee. Getting from the larger speed boats onto Samet have always been interesting as one would have to step aboard the shuttle boat, that which is basically chairs bolted on platform with engine.


This is not really Enjoyable


Traps for the Barefooted

Being so near to Bangkok on a well known island, expect it to be filled with people. The resort is just a little worn down but we could see the effort they put in to maintain its former pristine back when it was new. The shore however, pristine is not a word to be for that. Samet located south of the great industrial estates on mainland and Samet an island so exploited by the many small resorts. She is getting from worst to worst every year. Litters and flotsams the sea was strewn with, so sad the sight of the waters which clarity was suppose to have been appealing.


Resort Front


Dine by the Beach

The average food for the average price but ordering what I desired was in itself a challenge. I don’t know which country they get the waiters and waitresses from but I know they were not Thai. So we were served the wrong dish. Speaking both bad Thai and English they were, I did not have a third or fourth (probably Burmese or Cambodian) language I could communicate with them.


Dine in the Sunset


How we got Off the Island

All in all for the price, it was just what to expect for that short stay to get away from town. Isolated on a small bay dotted with litter I saw they tried so much to pick up every now and then, Lima Coco with rooms that are tight and tinted with that little exotic glamour, is that average okay resort meeting what most will reasonably expect it to be.
Dine in the Sunset


BBQ Seafood


Lima Coco


Dinner Menu

The Residence Hua Hin

Jacuzzi in a 2 bedroom villa.

Not the typical hotels that are aplenty lining parallel to the shoreline of Cha-Am and Hua Hin, but more like a cluster of two and three bedroom villas cuddled up in the middle of scorched farmlands within the vicinity of a few also scorched hills. Getting there requires some intuitive navigation skills and some phone calls to the resort as cows passed by your car on the local roads that you will be lost.


Stumbling into cows while driving local roads.


Coordinates 12°38'22.64"N, 99°55'16.46"

The Residence Hua Hin, is located next to Stamford University. However, unlike the university that could afford a large piece of land thus the strategic entrance from the main Phet Kasem road, entry to The Residence Hua Hin is from Hua Hin Soi 6, pass a railway track and through many villages inland that requires some driving. The villas are single storey bungalows toned orange brown enclosed by bamboo fence that's too low for any privacy comfort. So one could not skinny dip into the small Jacuzzi so inviting out front of the every villa on a hot day's night. The villas are all very spacious, a few of which have three bedrooms with the rest made up of two bedrooms units. In fact it is so spacious that if your friends bring along their own sleeping bags, you could sleep well over ten just in the living room. However, the air conditioners have aged and took a long time to cool the room down. So for the first half of the night, your slumber will be an episode between waking up to scratch unknown number of mosquitoes bites and restless naps before one can finally hibernate in the so thick comforter shielding one from the abundant pest.


Three bedrooms Villa.


Two bedrooms villa.

The Kings sized bed, is actually made up of two rather hard mattresses. You will roll over the hard ridge in your sleep on the bed I think intended for people with back problems. It's too rigid for my preference and I truly did not enjoy my sleep at all, waking up a dozen time looking at the clock hoping morning will come soon. Breakfast, I wished they could have done better for the price that one has to pay. Limited in selection and equivalent to two star motel quality which I frequent on my upcountry work trips. Dinner, again a disappointment on my end. Fish & Chips - Cod coated in delicious batter served with French Fires and salad the menu stated. And so I ordered with high expectations on the taste of a true English Fish & Chips reminiscence of my childhood which I had so many. Now the batter was good, but the Cod is not a Cod. It was some fishy tasting thin slab of local shallow water fish. So, don't ever ever ever ever order the Fish & Chips here. It ain't chip either.


Villas enclosed in low fence.


Spacious interior.

Showering in the villas expect some surprises. Well, there's a huge bathtub one could onzen in the bathroom and that's a plus point. Water pleasantly heated will be available and the flow is strong so no minus points on that too. Draining the tub, my bathroom was flooded from the water oozing out from the other drainage hole driving up scores of black scum accompanied by an appalling smell which infiltrated into the bedroom. No more onzen for me after my first try. Maintenance on the clogged drainage had been neglected in the villas and I wonder if they knew. Big minus point.


The big swimming pool.


Restaurant by pond where breakfast is served.

If it is a quite place one is looking for to be with a number of friends to get away from Bangkok, then The Residence Hua Hin is one good idea. Since it is spacious and large, taking on a three bedroom unit will allows for six or more guest. Chilling out to wine and snacks chattering the night away. Holding that cold beer in the Jacuzzi amongst laughter of friends soaking. Away from the packed beach pubs and noisy hotels lining the shoreline, this will be the place for you. However, if you come along with great expectation on the F&B, the quality of sleep matching the price, then one will truly be disappointed. Impression neutral I have, but nevertheless over these New Year holidays, rested my mind somehow I had.

Winter in a Tropical Island - Koh Mak

Koh Mak, the clear waters.


Getting there to Laem Ngop, 6 hours if you drive really slow.


Parking at THB 60 per night.

This island, Koh Mak, smack in the middle of Ao Thai ocean between Koh Chang and Koh Kood. A journey there will take 4 hours by car to reach the various ferry terminals within Laem Ngop in the province of Trat, so start your journey early. Over at Laem Ngop, on an unnamed jetty, there are speed boat operators offering the sea crossing for hotel staffs on Koh Mak at only THB 350, and for the public at THB 450. They also offer parking lots in private housing for you to leave your cars at THB 60 per night. Now, these boats are not the normal slow massive ferries crossing to Koh Chang. These are fast sea vessels guaranteed at making you regurgitate your food out all over the 16 or so rather comfortable seating under the white canvas canopy shielding you from the sun. It was hell of a ride for me as the December sea was rough. The boat had to continually retard the on the throttle and yet attempt to make the crossing in under 45 minutes. It's the monsoon now and we had to slam through the waves instead of cutting smoothly across clam waters. My testicles swapped positions after the ride.


A pier at Koh Mak where we arrived.


The long beach of Haad Khao.

There are a few beaches on Koh Mak. You wouldn't know which beach you did be arriving on but not to worry, the island has a network of local roads and your hotel will pick you up in a truck. We stayed on Haad Khao which means white beach. The sand ain't white on this wide gentle beach stretching laterally east west, but the waters are clam with very gentle waves offering us sunbathers a relaxing swim. We could float around face up without a struggle and be one with the horizon. The waters not churned is clear this season, see them crabs crawling and the occasional small fishes darting. I love Haad Khao, with the winter sun low, we enjoyed both orange sunrise and radiant sunsets in full view.


The shallow waters.


Sunrise in cold December mornings.

Winter I mentioned, whatever winter am I talking about? This is a tropical island, but December offered contrastingly cold mornings. Every morning, we woke to the sound of bristling trees swaying about in the breeze, it was the music of nature. It was 19 degrees centigrade as the sun rose and I clicked away on me shutter. In double clothing I was in, the wind chill I fought. The cleaners were out early, they comb the beaches keeping her pristine.


Bungalows of Baan Chailay.


Local road entrance to resort.

I stayed in Baan Chailay, about 4 to5 bungalows she has. Easy on me pocket, it cost THB 1,200 and we could sleep three. The air conditioner old, but it was cold. Need it actually we don't, the weather was pleasant. Hot showers in ground water pumped from below we bathed. The water was more of a trickling, and it smelt but hey, I ain't complaining for this price. Breakfast served simple, American or that Khao Tom (boiled rice) went well with the self served instant coffee. We were the only Asians accompanied by a number of elderly Caucasian folks politely chatting. Seated on wooden chairs and over our food laden tables, the feel was easy and homey. I had my 3 strips of bacon in the yellow sunlight accompanied by eggs, bread and butter.


Canoes for rental.

As the hours passed, the sky was a deep blue interrupted by bright white clouds . Still, the relentless breeze blowing. Our scheduled snorkeling trip costing THB 500 per pax was repeatedly delayed hourly since 10am. The sea beyond was too rough and the air too cold. We could have had ourselves a private boat at THB1,500, but it had been already been fully taken up by all the Farangs told we were. Being on Koh Mak during the monsoon season, expect travel plans to be altered. Our trip was eventually cancelled and the operators were worried how they were to deal with them Farangs who came on packaged tour. Nevertheless, we went on to an island opposite our beach known as Koh Rayang Nok.


Koh Rayang Nok.


Beach chairs.


White sands on a rather limited beach.

Koh Rayang Nok offered a small white beach with a few beach chars tastefully placed near the shoreline. Coming onto this island is not free, cost THB 200 for "entry". You could get your snorkeling gear form the lone restaurant operating on this island but the December seas were too strong for me. I do not want to drift away to Cambodia so I just sat on the sand whiter than that on Haad Khao on Koh Mak. That's where we also decided to have out very late lunch, not too tasty and a rather bit pricey. And as when one wishes, just tell the boat operator and you will be on your 10 minutes journey back onto Koh Mak.


Wind surfers during sunset.


Local roads to restaurants.

As evening approaches the cats were out playing. The dogs swam and we tourist strolled along passing the many small decent and simple resorts spaciously spread on Haad Khao. At times, we had the whole beach to ourselves. At times we had to avoid being hit by the beach ball so franticly chased by the sweaty young beach boys playing out front of their resorts. Dinner can be offered by a few restaurants located along the main road hidden behind by all the idyllic accommodations along this beach. Don't expect a gastronomical feast on these joints, they offer only decent simple meal masquerading behind artful names.


Chilling out the night.


Sofas on the breezy beach.

After dinner, there's a only-pub-on-this-beach place you could go to the locals called a Reggie Pub. Its well known to have a once a month Full Moon Party similar to that on Koh Phangan. There will be a live band and I could see that the lead singer was attempting his best to please the Farang crowd. We could not understand a single word of all the easy-listening songs he was bringing to us such. Stand By Me became Can By Me, Missing You became Meeing You . Alternatively to avoid the ear torture, we could just chill the night out over BYO whisky on the sofa set on the beach. Just make sure you order that soda, coke or French Fries from the cocktail stand serving the area. They are there to make a living after all and won't be pleased with you taking up the comfy seats free. It seemed we had the whole beach to ourselves again that night, only our laughter, cheers and chatter filled the windy night air. As we drank that last drop under the star lit skies, we walked the 10 meters back to our bungalows and shut down in anticipating of the beautiful sunrise the next morning.


Gentle waves.


So private.

Koh Mak in December, cool weather on contrasting sunny beach. A quiet place giving you the privilege of having the beach and turquoise waters all to yourself at times. Be warned though, oil yourself heavy in insect repellent. I am now sore with more than 20 or so ugly looking blistering sand fly bites. Locals had told me unlike Koh Kood and the more commercial Koh Chang nearby, Koh Mak does not spray their beaches with pesticides. The waters on Haad Khao will be still and only agitated by passing speed boats. The windsurfers takes to the waters and the power kites the cuts the breezy air. The simplicity of this island, the solitude and the clean air is a comeback that I must. Till we meet again.